Mangystau, Kazakhstan, March 2026
4:30 p.m. It is the fourth day of travel across the desert since we left the last inhabited settlement. On…
Lalish, the Valley Where the Yazidis Keep Returning (Iraq)
Between the sand and the rocky spines of northern Iraq, the Tigris and Euphrates rivers have flowed for millennia. Along…
Month 6 – The Land Between Two Rivers
Silence has just enveloped me when the alarm goes off. For Sreshma, life has resumed its routine, and in the…
The Silence of the Chain (Georgia)
“I have a destination, but it’s a place with no coordinates.” The kilometers slip beneath us, for hours and hours…
Eastern Türkiye, The Cold Lands of the Shepherds
For some years now, a return to nature, to a bucolic life, and to a reconnection with the earth has…
Month 5 – In the Arms of Kurdistan
Gaziantep can be said to be the Syrian “capital” in Turkey: of approximately two million inhabitants, one in four is…